Posts Tagged ‘photography’

Metering with Flash

Ballroom dance photo - ©TimeLine Media

From the post about starting with flash, I did get a question about how this affects the camera metering. Great question! As a review, the meter in the camera measures the amount of light that is reflected off your subject. When you shoot in manual mode where you specify the aperture and shutter speed of your photo, the in-camera meter will tell you whether or not your settings will produce a good exposure. A good exposure is or an overall 18% gray image.

The computer in the camera does not know anything about the subject you are photographing. Moreover it does not know what you are attempting to do. So it takes all the data from dark to light that is coming into the camera, and it spits out a scale. Where on the scale it meters will show you what your current settings will give you. If you are in the minus side of the scale, your overall image will be dark. However, if you are on the plus side of the scale, your image will be bright. The question came in from a recent image I posted from a product shoot where I photographed the viewfinder with my iPhone, and the scale was all the way to the minus side! Were my photographs all too dark or underexposed?

Flash Setup

Nikon viewfinder during product shoot - ©TimeLine Media
Nikon viewfinder during product shoot – ©TimeLine Media

This is where you need to add the flash, and the meter that is built into the flash can take over. If you are using the through-the-lens or TTL metering of your flash, there is a pre-flash burst that fires as you hit the shutter button. In that small time, this burst will be enough information for the flash to take in the scene, like your in-camera meter, then dial in the right amount of flash to add for a good exposure. You do not have to do any calculations or adjustments, the speedlight will do all that for you! This is one of the reasons these small units are so powerful. In quickly changing circumstances such as a wedding reception, or indoor event, you can turn in different directions very quickly and keep making flashes without changing your settings before each photo.

Bar Mitvah photo - ©TimeLine Media
Bar Mitvah photo – ©TimeLine Media

Just like using your in-camera meter, however, there can be some drawbacks. Depending on what you have in front of your lens, you may get over-exposed or under-exposed photos. Again, the camera cannot make any decisions on how you are composing your photo. It just sees dark and light. This is the reason why there are so many flash bulbs that will fire at the start of American football games – the cameras in the stands just see that light needs to be added to the scene. Why will using flash in this instance not work at all? I’ll post about that soon!

Ballroom dance photo - ©TimeLine Media
Ballroom dance photo – ©TimeLine Media

TimeLine Media – www.timelinedc.com
703-864-8208

Adding Light with Flash – Tech Thursday

Pet TTL flash portrait indoors - ©TimeLine Media

With the advances in digital photography, it is easier to explain how the camera calculates an exposure. Additionally, it is easy to visualize that a larger aperture opening will let more light into the frame, or a faster shutter speed will let in less light. Once you memorize that lower ISO values are less sensitive to light than higher ones, you have the basics of the “Exposure Triangle” mastered.

Flash Portrait

TTL flash portrait indoors - ©TimeLine Media
TTL flash portrait indoors – ©TimeLine Media

Getting photographers to start using flash is a difficult step. They start to freeze up. Almost as though they just put the camera back in Program mode again. They let the camera make all the decisions like they did when they first started taking photos. Just like the settings for Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO, working with flash can be straightforward. However, it does add another layer to the considerations when making images. I hope that through some posts, I can get you to experiment more with your flash. Hopefully you will learn how to control it to improve your photography. It will set you apart from “natural light” photographers that never add flash. There are many that choose to do this for artistic reasons, but do not be afraid to add this to your toolkit. You will be able to make images that are IMPOSSIBLE without the flash. If you have aspirations of photographing weddings, or events, you will need to use flash at some point in order to make images that grab attention.

Pet Portrait

Pet TTL flash portrait indoors - ©TimeLine Media
Pet TTL flash portrait indoors – ©TimeLine Media

In my previous post on flash, the settings on the speedlight were in the default TTL (Through-The-Lens) mode. This is the equivalent of the Program or P mode. The camera and flash work together to calculate how much light to add to your scene to get a good exposure. The computing power built into both ensure that you will get good exposures – and you can still control some of the aspects of the image. You can use TTL mode in Aperture priority so that you can set the depth of field in your image to keep that control over your composition. This is the first step – and likely you will get good results with the TTL settings on your camera. I’ll post how you can take control of this just as you do with your other settings in your camera to make even better images.

TTL flash portrait indoors - ©TimeLine Media
TTL flash portrait indoors – ©TimeLine Media

TimeLine Mediawww.timelinedc.com
703-864-8208

Printing Image on Inkjet Printers Part 2

HDR Lincoln Memorial - ©TimeLine Media

Continuing on with my first printing project from my own inkjet printer, I first wanted to ensure that only the black ink was used in the next print. I clicked all the boxes in the dialog box to only use the black ink, but this had an unintended consequence. In choosing to only use the black ink, the printer dialog does not let you specify the type of paper. My thought was that the printer can handle this change and make the appropriate changes to get a good print. That was not the case! Here is the print:

Second inkjet print from black and white HDR image - ©TimeLine Media
Second inkjet print from black and white HDR image – ©TimeLine Media

Printing Setup

For the third attempt, I changed the paper type in the printing dialog box to match the type of paper I was using. In this case, I was using a “premium glossy” paper from Kodak. There was no specific settings or profiles for this particular paper, although I have seen instances where more professional papers and printers will let you set each. This made the biggest differences in the printing quality.

Third inkjet print from black and white HDR image - ©TimeLine Media
Third inkjet print from black and white HDR image – ©TimeLine Media

The banding is now gone, and the image takes on a picture-like quality. The first two attempts not only had banding, but you could see many of the components dots that make up the image much like duotone or newspaper printing. This third attempt, this is almost disappears completely, and gradients between the light and dark parts of the sky transition nicely between each. When you hold the photo at arm’s length, it looks almost like an optical print. I am happy with the results, but I think that I am limited with how far I can take this. If I do make any more prints, I will stick to small ones – probably 5″x7″ or smaller.

HDR Lincoln Memorial - ©TimeLine Media
HDR Lincoln Memorial – ©TimeLine Media

TimeLine Media – www.timelinedc.com
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